Bicorne of the French Diplomatic Corps (c.1890)

Historical Significance

This piece is a French Ambassador's bicorne from around the turn of the century. These bicornes utilised ostrich down and intricate bullion embroidery to signal the power of negotiation and high-society presence. Whilst commonly paired with the full dress uniform that would be seen at galas, these particular hats were designed to reflect the peak of late 19th century diplomacy, and they certainly would stand out in a crowd. The tricolour cockade displayed beneath the bullion is a Republican symbol dating back to July 1789 during the early days of the French Revolution. The condition of this particular piece is good, with many of the feathers still intact, with no loose threads or damage to the bullion wire beyond surface marks. This is reflected across the rest of the hat.

Historically, this piece is tied to the transformative era of the Entente Cordiale (1904). We have attributed it to the era of Pierre Paul Cambon, who served as France's Ambassador to the Court of Saint James between 1898 and 1920. Cambon had previously served as French Ambassador to Madrid (1886-1890) and then as Ambassador to Constantinople (1890-1898) until he was selected as Ambassador to London. The Entente Cordiale was a series of agreements signed on the 8th of April 1904 and existed to bring about vast improvements in Anglo-French relations. Initially, Britain were intent on joining the Triple Alliance alongside Germany, however this eventually was reconsidered. The agreement was negotiated by Théophile Delcassé (the French Foreign Minister) and Lord Lansdowne GCMG (the British Foreign Secretary), yet was signed by Lord Lansdowne and Paul Cambon on the 8th April.

Curiously, whilst one would expect a Pariain hatter, the faded maker's mark on the interior of this hat appears to be of British origin, not French. Given Cambon's 22 years in London, it is likely that he, or a member of his circle, had their uniforms maintained or replaced by a St. James' Hatter such as Lock & Co. This may reflect the practical realities of long term diplomatic life especially in Cambon's time. 

The archive acquired this bicorne in early January 2024. Unlike the more rigid, utilitarian construction of British military bicornes, an example of which can be found in this same archive here, the French diplomatic bicornes prioritise grandeur and appearances.

Select References & Further Reading:

• Christopher, John. The Belle Epoque: A History in Pictures.

• Lauren, Paul Gordon. Diplomacy: New Perspectives in History, Theory and Policy.

• Otte, T.G. The Foreign Office Mind: The Making of British Foreign Policy, 1865-1914.

• Rankin, Nicholas. Entente Cordiale: The Origins & Negotiations

Header image: The Houses of Parliament, London. Artist Unknown; c. late 19th Century. Image sourced via Public Domain. 

Image used: 'Paul Cambon, French Ambassador to London,' Chusseau-Flaviens (c.1902). Image sourced via Public Domain.